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The American Book of the Dog:
The Origin, Development, Special Characteristics, Utility, Breeding,
Training, Points Of Judging, Diseases, and Kennel Management of all breeds of dogs.
edited by George O. Shields, 1891
The Deerhound By Q. Van Hummell, M. D.

By Q. Van Hummell, M. D.

This animal we have the aristocrat of all the canine race. He is the best guard, the best companion, and is capable of giving us more royal sport than any other breed of sporting dogs. I say this without fear of successful contradiction. A high-bred and properly trained Deerhound has more courage and can stand more punishment than any other dog. He has stronger attachment for his master or mistress, will fight for him or her quicker and more desperately, will never forget them, and when taken to the field he can run fast enough to catch an antelope, a jack-rabbit, coyote, wolf, deer, or elk, and can kill either of them alone and unaided. He will tree a mountain lion or a black bear, and will even fight a grizzly bear long enough for you to climb a tree or get off a good distance, so that you may kill him without danger to yourself.

These dogs combine more rare good qualities as a gentleman's companion than any other breed in the known world. Idstone says of them:

Pet dogs, of course, are a matter of taste and locality, and space must have much to do with the selection of a companionable dog. If, however, size is no objection, it would be impossible to name any dog superior to the true Deerhound, whether employed in his proper vocation or not. He is gentle in manners, unless roused by the sight of his game and excited to pursue it; he is no sheep-biter; he is a good guard; he 'follows" well; he can keep up with hack or carriage; he is not a self-hunter—that is, he does not skulk off poaching; he is faithful to his master; he is gentle with children, like the far-famed Gelert, his prototype; and he is majestic in appearance. Witness the pictures of him by Sir Edwin Landseer, in every variety of attitude, and sharing in all the pleasures—ay, even the sorrows of his master. With the hawk or falcon he made up the equipment of the old baron, and slumbered in front of his yule log, shared in his wassail and revelry, and formed a feature in his pageant and procession. He has been the companion of kings and emperors, and pulled down his game in the open by dexterity, force, and speed, without the aid of toils or cross bow—immaterial to him in old days whether it were boar, wolf, or hart—no day too long, no game too strong or dangerous, until his eye became dull, his limbs stiff, and his teeth worn down, not so much with years as the hard work, exposure, and wounds inseparable from his occupation, and he was retained at the hall or grange as a pensioner or a companion for the rest of his life.

He has the grand form, the elegant outline, the graceful attitudes and amiable disposition of the Greyhound, but far surpasses him in harmonious color and in texture and quality of coat. The writer has had as many as forty Deerhounds in his kennels at one time, and all have harmonized in color so perfectly as to please the eye of the art connoisseur. A number of them may not be all of exactly the same color, but they will breed true to a color. They may be steel-gray, lemon, or tawny.

One family that came from Imported Forum was canarycolored, and every one proved true to that color. Not so with any other known breed. There is always a strong family resemblance in a strain of Deerhounds.

A dog of good proportions should stand thirty-one inches at the shoulder; should measure thirty-five inches around the chest; his fore-arm should measure from eight and one-half to nine and one-half inches; his weight should be from ninety to one hundred and five pounds. He should be compactly built—not too long in the loin; this is one of the faults in many Deerhounds of the present day. When we remember that this dog must have great speed, must often make immense leaps after his game, and when he catches it must have sufficient power to kill it—which is often a difficult task—we see the necessity of a powerful muscular conformation.

He must be quick at a turn, to avoid the sharp hoof of the stag. This requires a short, powerful loin and strong quarters. The coat should be harsh, not wiry, about three inches long; and there should be a good thick under-coat, bristly at the muzzle. On shoulders, neck, and back the outer coat should be coarser than elsewhere. The head should be of the Greyhound type, only stronger, somewhat thicker, and more powerful.

The eye should be full, intelligent, and of dark color. The ear should be small, coated with fine, short, silky hair of close texture. It should be carried close to the head until the dog is excited, when it should stand semierect.

The neck should be strong and not too long. The Greyhound neck can not be too long, because he must reach to the ground to pick up his game; but the Deerhound, if a good killer, jumps on his game's neck, and hence needs no extra length in his neck, but does need extra strength there, as elsewhere, in order to hold on. His shoulders should be oblique and well muscled, his back strong and well arched, his hind quarters strong and powerfully muscled. His stifles should be well bent and his hocks well let down.

The stem should be large at the wat. This denotes a strong spinal column. It should taper down gradually to the tip, where the bone should be fine. It should be well covered with coat, and curved upward and sidewise. It should be of good length.

In fact, his general build must be on speed lines. His feet must be close and high-knuckled, of the cat-like order. Here is where the Deerhound will first weaken if not properly knit and closely muscled. His work in following his game over the rocky cliffs and over fallen timber, at full speed, is of the most trying kind. The writer has often seen the flat or hare-footed Deerhound get foot-sore in a few hours' work, while the strong-footed dog will work day after day for an entire week, and never show distress.


In skull (value 10), the Deerhound resembles the large, coarse Greyhound, it being long and moderately wide, especially between the ears. There is a very slight rise at the eyebrows, so as to take off what would otherwise be a straight line from tip of nose to occiput. The upper surface is level in both directions.

Nose and jaws (value 5).—The jaws should be long, and the teeth level and strong. Nostrils open, but not very wide, and the end pointed and black; cheeks well clothed with muscle, but the bone under the eye neither prominent nor hollow.

Ears and eyes (value 5).—The ears should be small and thin, and carried a trifle higher than those of the smooth Greyhound, but should turn over at the tips. Pricked ears are sometimes met with, as in the rough Greyhound, but they are not correct. They should be thinly fringed with hair at the edges only; that on their surface should be soft and smooth. Eyes full and dark-hazel; sometimes, by preference, blue.

The neck (value 10) should be long enough to allow the dog to stoop to the scent at a fast pace, but not so long and tapering as the Greyhound's. It is usually a little thinner than the corresponding part in that dog.

Chest and shoulders (value 10).—The chest is deep rather than wide, and in its general formation it resembles that of the Greyhound, being shaped with great elegance, and at the same time so that the shoulders can play freely on its sides. The girth of a full-sized dog Deerhound should be at least two inches greater than his height, often an inch or two more; but a round, unwieldy chest is not to be desired, even if girthing well. Shoulders long, oblique, and muscular.

Back and back ribs (value 10).—Without a powerful loin, a large dog like this can not sustain the sweeping stride which he possesses, and therefore a deep and wide development of muscle, filling up the space between wide back ribs and somewhat rugged hips, is a desideratum. A good loin should measure twenty-five or twenty-six inches in show condition. The back ribs are often rather shallow, but they must be wide, or what is called "well sprung," and the loin should be arched, drooping to the root of the tail.

Elbows and stifles (value 10), if well placed, give great liberty of action, and the contrary if they are confined by being too close together. These points, therefore, should be carefully examined. The elbows must be well let down, to give length to the true arm, and should be quite straight; that is, neither turned in nor out. The stifles should be wide apart, and set well forward, to give length to the upper thigh. Many otherwise well-made Deerhounds are very straight in their stifles.

The high symmetry (value 10) of this dog is essential to his position as a companionable dog, and it is therefore estimated accordingly. Quality is also to be regarded as of great importance.

Legs and quarters (value 7).—Great bone and muscle must go to the formation of these parts, and the bones must be well put together at the knees and hocks, which should be long and well developed. The quarters are deep, but seldom wide, and there is often a considerable slope to the tail. Some of the most successful dogs lately exhibited have been nearly straight-backed, but this shape is not approved of by deer-stalkers.

The feet (value 7) should be well arched in the toes, and cat-like; a wide-spreading foot is often met with, but they should be specially condemned.

Color and coat (value 10).—The colors most in request are dark-blue, fawn, grizzle, and brindle, the latter with more or less tint of blue. The fawn should have the tips of the ears dark, but some otherwise good fawns are pale throughout. The grizzle generally has a decided tint of blue in it. White is to be avoided either on breast or toes, but it should not disqualify a dog. The coat (value 5) is coarser on the back than elsewhere, and by many good judges it is thought that even on the back it should be intermediate between silk and wool, and not the coarse hair often met with; and there is no doubt that both kinds of coat are found in some of the best strains. The whole body is clothed with a rough coat, sometimes amounting to shagginess; that of the muzzle is longer in proportion than elsewhere; but the mustache should not be wiry, and should stand out in regular tufts. There should be no approach to feather on the legs, as in the Setter, but their inside should be hairy.

The tail (value 5) should be long and gently curved, without any twist. It should be thinly clothed with hair only.


Skull 10 Symmetry and quality 10

Nose and jaws 5 Legs and quarters 7

Ears and eyes 5 Feet... 7

Neck 10 Color and coat 10

Chest and shoulders 10

Tail 5

Back and back ribs 10

Elbows and stifles 10

Total 100

The origin of the Deerhound seems to be shrouded in mystery. The writer has owned and bred Deerhounds for over thirty years, and has during that time read everything relating to them that he could obtain. He has closely questioned every Scotchman whom he has met concerning this breed of dogs. The history given in books has always proved contradictory and of no avail; while every wellinformed Scotchman has argued that the Deer1round was the native dog of the Scottish Highlands, and that all other Scotch dogs were merely the result of crosses of the Deerhound on some alien. They always point to the rough coats of the Collie, the Terrier, and the Scotch Greyhound, and say, "Don't it show for itself that the remote cross is there." Yet the question as to the real origin of the breed is still a mystery, and will probably al ways remain so.

Up to 1860, Deerhounds were not plentiful in England, and but few were exhibited at English shows for some years after that date. America at that time had but few. Scotchmen inform me, however, that in the Highlands of Scotland they were always plentiful, but owners of kennels cherished them, sold none, and gave away but few. It was some years after the above date that inquiries for them began to be frequent, and since then they have become immensely popular with lovers of the chase, and are rapidly advancing to a high place as companions for both gentlemen and ladies. Of late years, certain sportsmen in the Great West have secured many fine specimens.


It is presumed that the breeder owns his stud dog and brood bitches, and hence my directions will be applied to both.

All dogs of the high nervous organization of the Hound require a large amount of exercise to keep them in proper muscular development. Therefore I would advise only persons who live in the .open country to try the breeding of the Scotch Deerhound.

This breed can not bear confinement in close quarters. It is safe to say that the two prominent breeders in America do not raise one out of ten puppies whelped in their kennels. This is largely owing to lack of proper conditioning of sire and dam. In selecting a brood bitch, take one with strong loin and roomy chest, not under two years old.

For two months before she is due in season, give her from ten to fifteen miles of regular, slow exercise behind a horse. To properly muscle a Deerhound it is not necessary to give her much fast work. Let her follow a carriage through the country, or if you live on a farm, let her follow the farm team around every day. Feed well at night, so that she will have all the night in which to digest her food.

If your work is slow, she will take it every day, and gradually develop muscle and vigorous health. The eye will become clear and large, the muscle hard and firm, the constitution vigorous, the step elastic, and the courage great. If you can now give her a race or two, to fully open her bronchial tubes, and thus develop full chest-power, it will be well. If she is now coming in season, exercise her until she is ready for service, and then let her have complete rest for two or three days before the dog is allowed to serve her.

The stud dog, of course, should have had the same treatment, and hence be in perfect condition. If so, one service will be better than more; and if either are out of condition, you had better not breed them. After service, the dog can take his rest, but the brood bitch should be left alone for a week, and then put back at the same work and worked slowly, but daily, until the seventh week; then stop her work and let her rest, feeding well.

This brings us up to her whelping-time. If on a farm, let her hunt her own place to whelp in. She will generally find a good location, and bring forth a large litter of strong, healthful puppies. Allow no stranger to disturb her during the first week. Some brood bitches are exceedingly nervous, and if disturbed will become restless, get up and turn over frequently, trying to cover up their whelps. Thus they are liable to lie on them and kill them.

If you have such a bitch, it is best to prepare a kennel for her to whelp in. This should be made roomy, and along the sides a strip should be nailed, four inches wide, and four inches from the floor. For bedding, tack carpet on the floor, so she can not cover up her puppies and then lie on them. This board along the side of the kennel will give the puppies a chance to crawl under; also behind the dam, while she can not get on them.

If the weather be warm, it will be well to have nothing but the board floor for them to lie on. If it be cold, it will be well to remove the carpet in four or five days and give a bed of clean straw, which should be changed twice a week. The writer prefers to have a bitch whelp on nice clean, dry earth; it acts as a disinfectant, and puppies always have done better and have been less liable to disease when whelped and raised on an earthen bed.

I have, during my experience of over thirty years in breeding and rearing Deerhounds, made it a rule never to feed the dam until she comes out of her kennel after food, and then to give her some nice soup and scraps of cooked meat, beef or mutton being preferable. She is now required to supply milk freely, and her diet must be strong, and of good quality and quantity. Give her different kinds of food—oatmeal, cooked meats, bread, vegetables of different kinds, Spratt's codliver-oil biscuit, raw meat, and plenty of bones to griaw at.

Many writers and breeders say never to let a dam raise more than six or seven whelps. My experience is that if you help a good mother she will raise eight or ten just a.s well as five or six, and much better than if she has no help with the smaller number. Puppies at three weeks old will begin to eat soup, and should have it four or five times daily. At four weeks old they will eat codliver-oil cake, softened in strong beef or mutton soup, and should have it three times daily—all they will eat. Always keep your feeding-pans sweet and clean. When you feed the puppies, remain with them until they are done eating; then take away what they leave, give it to the dam, and wash your feeding-pan, so it will be clean when next wanted. Under such treatment you will notice that the dam has very little trouble with her litter, and she will not begin to grow fat. At six or seven weeks of age her puppies will be weaned. She will have raised ten just as easily as she would have raised five, and if they are bred for sale it makes a vast difference in the income.

Many people say that Deeihound puppies are exceedingly hard to raise, I have never found it so. Give them plenty of exercise and good food and they will raise themselves, anywhere and in any climate.

It is well to give puppies, once a month, a dose of santonine, to clean out any worms they may have.

I have never lost a puppy with distemper, and have always made it a rule to have them in good condition at all times; then when distemper has taken hold of them, they have usually had but a slight attack, and have gone through it in good shape. I have never yet seen a Deerhound that was afflicted with chorea.


I do not believe in early training, and hence have never worked or prepared a Deerhound under twelve to fifteen months old. My experience is that the breed develops slowly, and for this reason a puppy at nine months old is not strong enough to follow a deer in any of our American forests. A carefully reared puppy can, at nine or ten months old, be given slow work behind the saddle-horse or carriage. This should continue for at least two months; and if three months can be given to this conditioning work, it will prove all the better. While a puppy is growing rapidly and filling out, he takes on muscle slowly, and for this reason his exercise should be continued for a longer period than is necessary for old dogs.

The Deerhound is used for hunting the deer, in the Western country, in two entirely different ways, and for each the training must be distinct and precise, according to the way he is to hunt his game. One is still-hunting, the other is coursing the deer. For still-hunting, the Deerhound is the dog par excellence. In training a puppy to stillhunt, take him on a leash, and with a snap so arranged that he can be loosened instantly. It is well to show him the game before firing, and at the first move of the puppy let him go.

If the deer be only wounded, he will follow it, and if from the right kind of sire and dam, he will catch and kill the deer. If his family connections have been of the timid kind, he will bay the wounded deer, and you can follow and kill it; but if his ancestors have been used on game, and your puppy is strong and of good age, he will kill the first deer he sees—just as a well-bred Setter will point the first quail he scents. After a few lessons, your puppy will stay to heel until you shoot, without a leash; and as he grows older, he will frequently lead you to the game by his keen scent, merely sniffing the air as he cautiously proceeds by your side or just in front of you.

Of course it is necessary to teach him obedience and not to allow him to break away. Should this occur, he will soon be coursing the deer, and leave you many miles behind; then his lessons must begin again at the leash. If carefully done, his teaching will be easy, and he will soon stand with the game in full view and not move a muscle; but will quiver with excitement, every muscle and nerve on extreme tension—waiting for his master to fire, when he is away with the speed of the falcon.

For coursing the deer, antelope, wolf, and coyote, the Deerhound is much used throughout the Far West. For this purpose they are generally used in packs of from three to ten. A good course will begin the preparation of his dogs by the 1st of August, so that when the weather gets cool enough for them to bear hard and fast running, say in October, they will be in prime condition—hard in muscle, in strong good health, and eager for the sport.

It is not necessary to train a Deerhound for coursing. All that is needed here is to show him the game and turn him loose. It is always best to take a puppy out with one or more older dogs, who will take hold of any kind of game, and thus educate the puppy to seize and kill the game he is running. The only proper way to course deer, antelopes, wolves, or coyotes is to have a cage on a light vehicle, for the purpose of confining the dogs and keeping them at rest until you sight your game. Then drive as close to it as possible, so that your dogs will be fresh when the game starts. If this is not done, you will soon find that a jaded, tired dog can not catch a fresh deer, antelope, wolf, or coyote.

I have frequently coursed deer and antelopes on the Western plains by taking out six good dogs in a cage, on a light wagon, and several friends following on good running-horses. The cage was so arranged that the driver could pull a spring, open the door, and let out the three loose dogs for a run, while the three to be retained in the cage were chained to the floor or sides. By driving in such a direction that it would appear to the game as though the wagon would pass by about two hundred yards away, and then angling toward the game, I could often approach within one hundred and fifty yards before they would start; and the moment the game would throw up their heads, the driver would pull the spring-door, out would come the loose dogs, and away would go game, dogs, and horsemen, the wagon coming along to pick up the game and tired dogs. The latter would then be given water, put back in the cage and chained, and the three fresh dogs would next be slipped. One day of such work, where the game is plentiful, will educate any well-bred young Deerhound.

Preparing for the bench requires an entirely different course of treatment after your dog is in good condition. Up to that point the work may be of a similar nature. He should be brushed and combed daily, and well handrubbed, so that his muscular development will be promi nent to the touch. Teach him to romp and play with you while you have a collar and leash on him. This will insure gay carriage in the judge's ring; and when you have a Deer hound with his eye bright, head up, and tail properly carried, if otherwise equal, he will always win over a sulky, drooping, cheerless dog.

I have always had better success, in the ring and in the field, with dogs of my own rearing, than with those reared by others. They are always more tractable, more ready to obey my wishes, and much more cheerful than those purchased after they are grown. The latter always act for me as though they were looking for a lost friend. My advice is to rear your own dogs, so that they may know no other master than yourself.

The memory of the Deerhound seems to surpass that of any other breed except the Greyhound. I have sold old dogs and have not seen them for two years, and without seeing me they would at once recognize my whistle when they heard it, and would come bounding to me in a perfect ecstasy of delight. How much longer they would have remembered me I can not say, but doubtless for many years.


Thirty-four years ago, in the Blue Mountain Range of Pennsylvania, I began this sport. In the spring of 1856, a Scotchman, a watch-maker by trade, located in the little village of Lehigh Gap. He brought with him two Deerhounds, a dog and a bitch. After a short residence at the Gap he had to go back to Scotland, and left his horse and two dogs with me until he should return the next spring. He never returned, and I became the owner of a fine horse and two excellent Deerhounds. I hunted those dogs after foxes, lynx, wildcats, and deer until worn out by old age and hard work. They would run with a pack of Foxhounds that were kept in the vicinity as though trained with them from birth. They would trail with them, and whenever the fox appeared in a field, they would at once leave the pack, run by sight, and catch the fox. There was no sport that they enjoyed more.

The ease with which a Deerhound may be educated to do a certain part of any sport is remarkable. In a portion of the Pocoivo Mountains, north of the Blue Range, deer were at that time plentiful. Much of the country is very rough, and it was impossible for the Deerhounds to catch a deer that was not wounded; so we used to take a pair of slow trail-hounds to drive the deer into and across the valleys, and would then take the Deerhounds into the valleys to sight the deer as they came out. The second time we went there with our dogs was in November, 1856. We arrived about daylight, and our trail-dogs struck a track and gave tongue before we had our team unhitched from the wagon.

While we were putting out the team, the Deerhounds got away from us, and we supposed they had followed the yelping trail-hounds. We ran to the valley below, some half-mile away, as fast as we could, knowing that the game would cross there. When we got within sight of the runway, to our great astonishment we found Bevis and Ledaat their posts, eager for a sight of the game. When I say that on our previous hunt, one month earlier, we had always kept collar and leash on these dogs, and that they caught on that hunt but two deer at this point, the remarkable sagacity of the Deerhound may be realized. Had the Foxhounds started on a trail in the Blue Mountains, the Deerhounds would have gone with them to catch the fox; but not so here. They had been here once on entirely different business, and so well did they remember it that they iraraediately sped to their posts of duty. And well did they perform their work. The deer came out close to them, and they caught and killed it before it ran two hundred yards.

This dog Bevis was the only Deerhound I ever saw that was trained to do tricks of various kinds. He would fetch, carry, go to the post-office or butcher shop, carry notes to neighbors and take back anything that was given him in return for the letter. I remember distinctly that he once did a trick never before required of him. I was driving a fractious horse, in a sulky, and dropped my whip. I was afraid to get out to regain it, and called to Bevis to pick it up, which he did immediately; then I called to him to bring it, which he also did, and placed it in my hand.

I was then a school-boy, and took great pains to teach this dog; something I never had the time nor patience, in after life, to repeat with any of my other dogs. I now remember many fine specimens that have often displayed intelligence of a superior order, which needed nothing but training and teaching to make them trick-dogs. I fully believe that a properly shaped Deerhound could be educated for high leaping so as to surpass all dogs in that work. A strong, short-backed, powerfully muscled Deerhound leaps easier and higher than any other dog that I have ever seen in the field. No doubt it is only the high price that keeps them from getting into the hands of training showmen, who would otherwise bring them forward in this amusing novelty.

To illustrate their jumping power, I will relate an amusing incident which happened several years ago in a Western village. My dog* Imported Champion Mac delighted in killing all the cats he could find. While on a wolf-hunt we were just starting out in the early morning, and the dogs feeling extra fresh, Mac came up a crossstreet after a cat; the cat went under our horses, and Mac, in a tremendous leap, went over both horses. This dog never had any special training in leaping, but when after game he was never known to stop at any obstruction that could be scaled.

The courage and game qualities of the high-bred Deerhound can not be better illustrated than by describing a wolf-hunt which took place in Montana. Some years since, I sold a trained pack of six Deerhounds to the Sun River Hound Club of Montana. This club was composed of wealthy cattlemen, who were losing thousands of dollars' worth of cattle annually through the ravages of the large gray timber wolf. They hired Mr. I. N. Porter, an experienced wolf-hunter, to handle this pack of Deerhounds on their cattle-range for one year. I had guaranteed the dogs to kill any wolf in the territory. Mr. Porter took the dogs with him to deliver them to the club. He and the writer had killed many prairie wolves in Colorado with these dogs, but had never tackled the large gray timber wolves of the Rocky Mountains. It seems that one of the members of this club had a large flock of sheep, and one certain wolf had been preying on them for four years past. It was to this ranch that Mr. Porter and the dogs were first taken, and this tremendous wolf was to be the first one that the pack was to tackle. If they could catch and kill him, my guarantee was to be considered fulfilled. I had carefully instructed Mr. Porter how. to work the dogs, and above all to have them in prime condition when they saw the first wolf. This ranch was located some seventy-five miles from railroad communication, and the dogs had to travel this distance on foot; so that when they arrived at their future home their feet were worn to the quick, and they had to be rested. The second night after their arrival this wolf, with twb smaller ones, came and killed four sheep, and naturally Mr. Porter's curiosity was aroused to see what kind of an animal these dogs were to kill; so after daylight he mounted his horse and followed the wolves, merely to get sight of them and learn their habits. The following is quoted from a letter which was written on his return to the house after seeing this large wolf:

"Dear Doctor: The dogs and I arrived safe, only very sore from long travel. These men are very anxious to see what kind of work these high-priced dogs will do. Last night, that big wolf they wrote you about killed four sheep near the house, and I followed him five or six miles merely to see what he looked like. I saw him. and I want to tell you now that I think my job and your dog-money will be gone whenever I allow the dogs to go near that wolf. But I can't hold these men much longer, so I promised to go after him day after to-morrow."

Two days later I received the following letter: "Dear Doctor: Last night, or rather just before daylight, we heard the wolf in the sheep-corral, and went out to scare him away. He had already killed one sheep and eaten of it freely. At daylight, myself and three club members took four of the dogs (Oscar and Meta being still too sore to work) and started after the big fellow. We followed him for at least ten miles before we could show him to the dogs. They went to him very quickly, he depending more on his fighting than running qualities. Colonel and Dan reached him first, and struck him with such force that he went down never to get up again. They killed him in a short time, and neither of the dogs got a scratch. The Colonel took his old hold at the throat, and never let go until I choked him off. Colonel, you know, is just thirty inches high at the shoulder. We stood this wolf up beside Colonel, and he was one inch taller than the dog.

"We brought the wolf home, to see what he would weigh, and he tipped the beam at one hundred and seven pounds. To say that the club members were delighted with the dogs is putting it too mild. They were simply crazed. Dan was still sore in his feet, and they carried him home on horseback. I will now rest the dogs up, and^get them in perfect form before I work them again. This country is alive with wolves and other game."

During the season of 1886, Mr. Porter killed with these dogs one hundred and forty-eight gray wolves and over three hundred coyotes. Among many letters from him extolling the wonderful courage of these grand dogs, the following shows what six dogs well trained to their work can do:

"Dear Doctor: To-day I suddenly came upon a pack of fifteen full-grown wolves. I had all six dogs with me, and they were in good form. I was satisfied that unless we did good work, and that quickly, the wolves would kill the dogs; so I jumped among them, and as fast as the dogs got one down I stuck my knife into his heart. In this way we killed twelve out of the fifteen; but I am sorry to say that poor old, faithful, courageous Dick was killed."

If there is a breed of dogs on earth that combines so many sterling qualities as the Scotch Deerhound, I am not acquainted with that breed.

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